November 2024 / Kate Boyfield

I went to London (again)

Saturday, 23 November 2024

I might have a problem.

I was going a little stir crazy at home, so I decided to go on a(nother) spontaneous trip to London. I booked a lovely apartment near Russell Square for two nights and tickets to see The Duchess (of Malfi) at the Trafalgar Theatre on Tuesday night.

I took my film camera and two rolls of Kodak Gold with me because I wanted to take lots of autumnal/wintry snaps around the Bloomsbury area. I'd never stayed in that area or even visited it before and I loved it. The architecture is beautiful and the bookshops, oh, the bookshops...

I arrived on Monday at 11am and walked from King's Cross to my apartment to drop my luggage off. After that, I headed to Covent Garden for lunch at Honest Burgers (standard) then to their Monday antiques market. I picked up three printing blocks - two K's from The Old Printing Shop in the Apple Market and a vase of flowers from another stall (the name escapes me) in the Jubilee Market.

I bought a large wooden letter from The Old Printing Shop last year which sits on my bookshelf as decoration, but these ones I'm planning on using in my junk journal.

I do appreciate how much Covent Garden really pushes the boat out at Christmas.

I wandered around the Covent Garden/Leicester Square/Trafalgar Square areas just soaking up the atmosphere and taking pictures.

An underrated sight around Trafalgar Square is the East Window of St Martin-in-the-Fields. It was designed by Shirazeh Houshiary in collaboration with architect Pip Horne and installed in 2008.

Image credit: Modus Operandi.

Modus Operandi, the developers and curators of the St Martin-in-the-Fields Art Programme, write on their website:

The glass, held within a stainless steel framework, is made of mouth-blown clear glass panels etched on both sides with a subtle, feathery pattern, a recognisable hallmark of Houshiary’s paintings. The glass panels graduate from a periphery of more transparent glass to a denser, whiter centre. The central ellipse itself is lightly etched, and lit in such a way as to form a focal point of light visible internally and externally.

I stumbled upon the window by accident while aimlessly wandering around. I remember reading about it years ago online so I'm happy to have finally seen it in person. It's very neat. I did photograph it with my film camera, but I've yet to have the film developed.

By around 4pm I was getting a bit fed up with the constant drizzle so I jumped in a taxi and headed back to my apartment. I picked up some sushi from around the corner for dinner, got into my pyjamas, and watched Rivals in a nice big bed. Truly living the dream.

❦

Tuesday was my longest day, so I got up early to make the most of the daylight. At around 9:30am I set off towards Waterstones on Gower Street. It's Europe's largest new and second-hand bookshop with a record shop and art shop in the basement. It is basically my dream store. Everything I love in one building!

I picked up two playscripts, Don Juan in Soho and Pride & Prejudice* (*sort of), a very vintage Penguin copy of Lady Chatterley's Lover, and two Derwent graphite pencils from the art shop.

I spent a good hour here just browsing the playscripts and the Shakespeare section.

After Waterstones I wandered south towards Bury Place which is home to the London Review Bookshop and Present & Correct.

From the London Review Bookshop, I picked up a book that's been on my wish list for over a year now - At the Pond, a collection of essays from writers sharing their stories of swimming in the Kenwood Ladies' Bathing Pond in Hampstead Heath. From Present & Correct, I picked up an assortment of ephemera and a few more pencils because I clearly don't have enough.

I had lunch at My Old Dutch on High Holborn then went back to my apartment for a shower and a nap. I wanted to get in a quick snooze before leaving again and heading to the theatre.

I don't tend to go out into London at night so I found it weird getting dressed and leaving the apartment at 6pm when it was pitch-black. It felt weird and a little bit exhilarating.

I jumped on the tube to Leicester Square and killed some time around the Trafalgar Square Christmas market again. I bought two very cute sparkly rings because reasons. I then decided to walk the length of Whitehall and go see Big Ben.

It was extremely crowded in this area, so I didn't hang about for long. Although Big Ben does look rather pretty at night.

I walked back up Whitehall and towards the Trafalgar Theatre.

Not a bad view for last minute tickets! Only cost me £25, too. I was chuffed.

I give The Duchess (of Malfi) a solid 4/5 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️. Very funny, the whole cast was brilliant. I especially liked Paul Ready as The Cardinal. Joel Fry was absent as Antonio that night, so his understudy Kerill Kelly performed instead and I think he did wonderfully. I went in knowing nothing about this story, but now I am so intrigued to read the original text.

I walked back to Leicester Square tube station and headed home. I love how busy London is at night, it made me feel safe while being alone. Big crowds and bustling city centres are brilliant at mitigating that solo traveller anxiety.

❦

My train home was at 3:48pm, so I had a solid 5 hours of free time to kill. I wanted to go to the London Graphic Centre near Covent Garden so I found myself there again. Luckily, the weather was a lot brighter.

Makes a change from the dull grey.

I spent a long while in the London Graphic Centre. There was so much to take in. I left with even more graphite pencils, a Kleid memo notebook, a Möbius and Ruppert beechwood sharpener, a dust-free Faber-Castell eraser, and a Rhodia pencil case. I wanted a nice small pencil case to take with me when I go life drawing, something with just enough space to hold my pencils, a sharpener, and an eraser, and the Rhodia one is perfect. I got it in classic Rhodia orange.

I wandered west to Piccadilly Circus and thought I might as well visit Waterstones! Again!

So I picked up more books. I got Into the Woods (a guide on screenwriting I've wanted for a long time), two No Fear Shakespeare books (The Taming of the Shrew and Sonnets), This is Shakespeare, and Delta of Venus.

Someone has to ban me from stationery/art/book shops.

I had lunch at Prezzo, did some more wandering, then headed to King's Cross.

Also, why is King's Cross station so cold all the time? I was so cold my teeth were chattering waiting for my train (which was, of course, extremely delayed). I felt that cold in my bones a whole day later. But despite the plummeting temperatures (and snow!), I had a great time in my favourite city. I'll be back again in March.

Tuesday, 5 November 2024

I thought I'd be exciting and spontaneous today and jump on the train to Lincoln. I love Lincoln, I think it's a beautiful city with so much to see and do. I took my little Canon Sure Shot 105u and a spare roll of film and set off.

I stopped by Primark first because I have been on the hunt for some oversized scrunchies for weeks and I finally found two that I actually like, but then I headed to Silver Street to catch the Walk & Ride up to the cathedral (sometimes known as the Steep Hill Shuttle).

I have dragged my sorry self up Steep Hill more times than I can count, but this time I wasn't having it. I didn't fancy sweating and panting like a crazed animal once I got to the top, so I opted for the bus which dropped me off right outside the cathedral doors. And I wasn't out of breath or miserable!

I walked around the perimeter and took a few snaps (mostly with my camera). I really love Lincoln Cathedral, it is so breathtaking to behold, and the weather was so moody and somber. It made for the perfect gothic backdrop.

I always have to stop and admire the gorgeous houses on Minster Yard. I am profoundly jealous of whoever gets to live there. To top it off, I spotted the sweetest cat perched on one of the windowsills.

On my way down Steep Hill (because going down is far easier), I passed The Lincoln Imporium.

I absolutely had to go inside and find out more.

The Imporium tells the tale of two imps who were sent by the Devil to spread chaos in Lincoln many centuries ago. When they were caught causing mischief inside the cathedral, an angel ordered them to stop. The braver of the two threw stones at the angel, and in return was turned to stone. You can see this imp in the cathedral.

The remaining imp roamed the streets of Lincoln trying to find a way to free his companion. He eventually struck a bargain with the angel. The imp promised that if he dedicated his life to capturing other imps and returning them to where they came from, the angel might set his friend free.

This task was too monumental for the imp to carry out alone, so he partnered with the Ancient Order of Fabled Imp Catchers to find and capture imps wherever they were causing chaos.

Once they're caught, the wild imps are brought back to Lincoln where they are taken across the boundary of the sacred Cathedral Quarter. It is said that when an imp crosses this threshold, its soul returns to where it came from, leaving behind a solid stone form.

The stone imps are a reminder of the imp's original promise to the angel - to capture its fellow imps in exchange for his frozen friend.

The Imp Catchers at The Lincoln Imporium are inviting the public to learn the story of the imps, choose one to rehome, and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t get up to any more mischief.

Sunday, 3 November 2024

I'm a sucker for an embroidered/beaded decoration. I think they add so much personality, colour, and texture to a tree without looking cheap or tacky. I love the intricate designs and how the little beads and the shiny thread reflect the light beautifully. Two of my favourite brands for embroidered decorations have to be Tinker Tailor and Katie Larmour Linen - especially Katie Larmour, whose decorations are so gorgeous, unique, and meticulously crafted. They are pieces of art, and if I had some they would be hanging in my house all year round.

Many of these decorations are made using Zardozi, a centuries-old sewing technique that originated in Persia (now modern-day Iran) and made its way to India in the 16th century. Zardozi comes from the Persian words zar or zarin which means 'gold', and dozi which means 'sewing'. It is characterised by metallic threads, pearls, beading, sequins, and precious stones. (Sources: Mehar, Times of India).

I've included a variety of decorations ranging from £6 to £58, so you can get the look for as little or as much as you like.

Turtle Dove Hanging Tree Decoration from Ginger Ray, £7.99.

Red and Gold Tree Decoration from The National Portrait Gallery Shop, £13.00.

"Produced by St Nicolas who are a member of the British Association of Fair Trade Suppliers. Handmade in Thailand by a Christian charity who support disadvantaged women to find work within their community. Made by a workforce of around 200 skilled women who sew and make each decoration at home."

Velvet Embroidered Bauble from Harrods, £25.00.

Velvet Door Hanging Christmas Tree Decoration from Etsy, £7.75.

Hand Embroidered Carrot Ornament from Marshalls Garden, £6.26.

Tinker Tailor Velvet Carriage Tree Decoration from Fenwick, £23.99.

Winter Hare Tree Decoration from Highgrove Gardens, £11.95.

"Each decoration is individually crafted by hand by skilled artisans in India using the centuries-old technique of ‘Zardozi' (sewing with gold). The sale of Highgrove Products enable the life and work of The King’s Foundation."

Gingerbread Decoration from Katie Larmour Linen, £19.00.

"Sumptuous linen from a County Antrim linen mill in a glorious rich, warm cinnamon brown tone. Luxury artisan ornaments created from a source of recycled, sustainable Irish Linen. We use a mixture of vintage, local mill headstock rolls from one of the last remaining linen mills still active in Ireland today, repurposed antique tablecloths, and off cuts from our own cushion making."

Embellished Velvet Bauble from Harrods, £32.00.

Blue Star Christmas Tree Decoration from Morgan & Butler, £7.00.

Embroidered Peas in Pod Decoration from Fortnum & Mason, £18.00.

Shakespeare Bookspines Decoration from the Royal Shakespeare Company, £18.00.

"St. Nicolas specialises in bespoke decorations. All of their decorations are handmade, and the time taken to make each one is reflected in their unique quality. For 25 years they have worked with a small Christian charity in Thailand that helps disadvantaged rural women find work in their community, rather than being forced to leave home to work in a factory. Today, some 200 skilled women work at home sewing their decorations, and many of them have been doing so for more than 10 years."

Embroidered Heart Tree Decoration from Harrods, £25.00.

Toadstool Ornament from Etsy, £26.00.

Goose a Laying Embroidered Decoration from Fortnum & Mason, £25.00.

Embroidered Snow Globe Tree Decoration from Liberty, £29.95.

"Liberty Christmas decorations are created by a network of 35 home-based master craftspeople from Noida in Northern India. They practise an ancient artform of Zardozi, which originates from 12th century Persia, and refers to the embellishing of fabrics with metal-bound fabrics."

Lilac Ophelia Flower Hanging Decoration from Hand & Lock, £58.00.

Guide Dog Christmas Tree Decoration from Guide Dogs, £15.00.

"Each decoration is hand-embroidered by skilled artisans in India using the traditional 'Zardozi' method (sewing with gold) and includes beads, velvet and a hanging loop. 100% of profits go to Guide Dogs."

Musical Wreath Embroidered Christmas Ornament from The Chord, £22.00.
"All our embroidered designs are made for us by a longstanding manufacturer who is a member of BAFTS (British Association of Fair Trade Suppliers)"